After celebrating Christmas with the family at Kvarstad gård in Brumunddal, our kids left us, spreading over the world like Leafs. Stephanie left for Mexico, Alexander for the USA and Christopher headed to Austria. The lust to get some altitude in our legs and a time alone was growing. Where to go? After checking the map, Hemsedal stood out with a three-hour drive westbound from our residence. The fact that we hold a Skistar All-season ticket made the choice simple, as it’s valid in Hemsedal.
When driving a car in Norway you count hours, not miles.
Roads are narrow and lingers around the landscape like a snake. No need to hurry and take your time is the advice. With that in mind we left Kvarstad Gård early in the morning. On the recommendations from our host, we had prebooked one night at the Fýri resort. A modern spa hotel at the bottom of the slopes.
Norway is not cheap, and that goes with Fýri as well. However, I must say it was worth it for a night or two. Even though Hemsedal is the second-largest ski resort in Norway it isn’t that big. 20 lifts and 810 meters/2660 feet vertical drop makes it worth a weekend stay in my opinion. Most of the slopes facing north makes you ski in the cold shadows in December and January.
Owned by a listed company
Under the ownership of Skistar, being one of the fastest growing ski destinations in Scandinavia. It surprised me that many of the 20 lifts were out to date. Not less than half of the lifts are single ride button lifts. Two modern multiseater chairlifts brings you halfway up the mountain. Unfortunately, they end up almost at the same place at the bottom, so the slopes gets very crowded during Christmas. There are two more four-seaters, one bringing you up to mount Tinden at 1345 meters, and another to mount Roni at 1225 meters.
Skiing above tree level
As the skiing starts at 620 meters/2000 feet above sea level, the actual vertical drop is 725 meters/2400 feet when skiing from top to bottom. Which is not bad in Scandinavian measures. To reach the highest peak Totten, at 1450 meters, you have to take a t-bar. The one slope there is green, so you can’t really count it in for the last 100 meters of elevation. Besides that, it was closed during our visit. But when you ski the other two peaks from top to bottom, you will find some excellent slopes for high speed turns. Despite there are only two lift options, you get several nice slopes to choose from.
Hemsedal is fast-growing in terms of beds. A lot of construction is going on around the ski area, more beds will make the slopes even more crowded. To be fair, Christmastime is the start of the season and snow has not yet built up.
Go here when the snow falls
The Off-piste skiing is great when the snow falls. That means that some of the crowd will leave the slopes for the woods and hiking for powder instead. Skistar is also planning to expand the ski area, and that’s a must. Because it is not satisfying right now during high season. On the other side, if you are able to visit Hemsedal during weekdays at the end of January or beginning of February I can assure you that the four existing express lifts together with some T-bars will provide you with access to world-class skiing for a few days because the system is good, just to small for the amount of skiers that rounds up during school holidays.
All the new money poring in to the valley demands service and flair, and that you will find here. There are some spectacular hotels and on-slope restaurants worth a visit when you are feed up with watching your back in the busy slopes. Except the Fýri you might consider a stay at Skarsnuten hotel, located in the slopes above the tree level, overlooking the valley with an amazing view. There is also a brand-new restaurant high up in the system called Storstugu at Skigaarden, rumors says they’re hosting Norway’s best wine cellar. So if the slopes are too crowded, you can always aim for a longer lunch.
There is the old and new Hemsedal, for after ski and shopping I suggest you leave the resort and go the few kilometers down to the town center. It’s a genuine mountain village, which confirms why Hemsedal deserves a spot on the international ski map.
